Political History in Belfast, Northern Ireland - 24-Hour Travel Guide
A Falls Road mural depicting famous Republican, Bobby Sands (courtesy Flickr: jimmyharris)
Union Jacks line a fence in Belfast (courtesy Flickr: IrishFireside)
Tour Belfast's infamous neighborhoods in a Black Taxi (courtesy Flickr: wikier)
Modern shopping in Belfast's Castle Court Shopping Center (courtesy Flickr: wsuph001)
Overview - The name Belfast carries with it a connotation of war and violence, but the city is very different today than it was during the 1980s. The Good Friday Agreement in 1998 brought prolonged peace to the city, and a chance for it to develop and thrive. Today we’ll explore some of the historically troubled areas of Belfast, as well as take advantage of its burgeoning economy and cheap shopping.
Breakfast - The traditional Belfast breakfast is called an Ulster Fry, taking its name from the Irish county where Belfast is located. Similar to both English and Irish breakfast fries, the Ulster Fry consists of fried eggs, baked beans, black and white pudding, fried tomatoes and is always accompanied with strong black tea and milk. Maggie Mays on Botanic Avenue is the staple place to get a good Ulster Fry on a cheap-as-chips ticket.
Morning - There is really no way for outsiders to truly understand the political and religious troubles that Belfast has suffered. To get a starting glimpse, you can take either an open-top bus tour or, alternatively, a Black Taxi tour, where a taxi driver will escort you to some of the city’s more infamous sites in an old-style British taxi. You’ll want to get a look at the traditionally Republican Falls Road and its Loyalist neighbor, the Shankhill Road. These streets, which are now separated by an unnerving 2-storey fence ironically named the “Peace Line”, were once the epicenter of the conflict. Murals are still present on the exterior walls in both neighborhoods depicting the fighting, violence and political agendas that were once so divisive in Belfast.
Lunch - You’ll no doubt be hungry after your morning tour, so grab a sandwich at O’Brien’s Sandwich Company. This café serves up tasty sandwiches made to your liking, or they have an extensive list of house specialities.
Afternoon - Armed with a clearer understanding of Belfast’s rocky past, you are ready to explore its lucrative future. Commerce is one of the main forces bolstering the Northern Irish economy, so lots of designer shops and large shopping areas have sprung up around the city. Dublin Road and College Street are two major shopping districts where you can find all the well-known international brands. For a less obvious shopping experience, check out the Smithfield Market, behind Castle Court shopping center. Here, a slew of independent retailers and designers have set up shop and the prices are amazingly reasonable.
Dinner - A nod to Belfast’s new lease on life, many upmarket and star rated restaurants have popped up around the city. For a taste of the fashionable, urban dining atmosphere available here, check out Cayenne. Fish dishes are a popular house speciality here, as all the seafood is locally caught and prepared.
After Dark - Some of Belfast’s central districts seem to close up shop after dark, which is probably a habit leftover from less peaceful times. However, if you know where to go, there is actually a thriving nightlife in the city. For a cosmopolitan evening out, go to Apartment, which is located above the City Hall and has great views of Belfast at night. They serve tasty cocktails in a chic environment that will make you think you’re in one of Europe’s trendiest cities.
Sleep - By all means, stay at the Parador Hotel on the Ormeau Road. The rooms are clean and simple and the staff is friendly. The pub downstairs has great live jazz sessions weekly and the location is only a few minutes from downtown Belfast.